Comments

  • Plastic shortage: Alternative Pipe materials?
    10x3 schedule 40 foam core has went from around $8 (w/quantity discount) to near $18 w/no discount available here. As long as I can still get it I will keep using it and pass along the increase.
  • Alarms are mandatory now on radon systems
    Indeed, there is no perfect solution. A silent alarm is no better than the manometer, and I think we can all see issues with the audible alarm. At some point I think you have to put some of the responsibility of maintaining checking the system on the homeowner. I'm thinking more of this time being spent on alarms, etc. should be put into educating the general public. If they don't understand what the radon mitigation system is then no matter what you supply them with will not matter. Personally, I think the manometer, as all manufactures produce them, are one of the most misunderstood pieces of the radon mitigation system. Most say "system monitor" on them, and then there are numbers 1-4 printed on it. To many, outside the radon industry, that little devise is showing radon "level". I know the label right next to it says it is not radon level. BUT, who reads labels! All much of the general public know about radon is it should be under 4, (In the US) and this little "monitor" clearly shows the "level" is below 4. ALL IS GOOD!! I think the word monitor should be removed as well as the numbers. Leave only the lines as they are. When I brought this up to a major manufacturer a few years ago they said the numbers where there for mitigators to know the pressure. In my opinion any competent mitigator could figure that out without having the number printed on it. The only way to determine if a radon system is "working" is to test. There are many "running" systems out there that are not working. I know some mitigators leave monitors for homeowners to use. That is fine until the homeowner moves and takes it with them, or lends it to someone else to use and it never comes back.
    Sorry this has gotten long. I just think we are trying to make it too complicated. I don't know the solution, but keep as simple as possible. More to educating the general public on testing in my opinion and not into more strict standards and requirements. All the new standards/requirements that get added keeps making it harder and harder on the small one man operations such as me.
    To everyone who is on is or has been on any standards committee, board, or in any leadership role at all, please know this is not a complaint against any of you. I appreciate the time all of you have given. I just ask that we back up and take a look. Please don't make it more complicated. Testing is where it's at. Not trying to make a one size fits all situation. There is no such thing.
    Thanks for listening to a small 175 +or- system/year contractor that's been around for 15 years trying to keep up.
  • Comparison of Consumer Radon Monitoring Devices
    This is very informative. I also get asked frequently from homeowners what I know about the various homeowner monitors. Until this I was only able to share my own limited experience which is a side by side test conducted between one of my CRM's and the homeowners monitor. Most all of the time the results are very close however, I have had a few instances with one particular model being off to the high side (I would rather have it read high than low for the homeowner). These were monitors that had been in use for a period of time so I will look forward to your report on extended use performance. Please share that information here if you can.
  • Home Buyers & Sellers Guide
    Thanks all. I was looking for the printed booklet and have found them.
  • Permanent Wood Foundations
    This particular home wound up working out well. After some diagnostic work, along with having access to the building plans, I determined to install the suction point near the center of the basement. Luckily in this home that is also where the mechanical room was. I did not use the sump pit as the suction point as I believe the tile exiting form there was a daylight drain. Post mitigation average radon level was 1.1 pCi/L. Thank you all for your input!


    This home brings me to another question that I should probably open a new thread for but I will start here. I was really concerned, with this type of construction, about what looked like a lot of moisture staining/damage on the basement walls. I struggled morally with if I should bring this up with the new owner, or if I should assume that the issue was pointed out in the home inspection and just do what I was there for. Thoughts?
  • Permanent Wood Foundations
    This home does have a concrete floor as well as a sump pit and perimeter drain. The first thing I will do when I go is get a sniff test at sump pit.
  • Safety Siren Radon Detector
    I do not use them in my business, but have done several side by side tests for clients that have them, with my CRM's. Most of the time they are pretty close to my calibrated CRM's however I have found a few that have been wrong, giving higher averages than I showed. I believe the SS's that were off were in the warranty period and were either replaced or recalibrated by manufacturer.
  • Inspection Report Documentation
    As much as I would want to go ahead and turn that valve, I think the only way to not be liable for any future problems would be to not to touch it. I would note urgency on the report and or make a phone call to my client.
  • When to release Rn results & offer a mitigation bid
    I echo Leo's approach exactly. I always let the client make the request. They do nearly every time. I am in a regulated state where I can do both.
    Just curious......if you do give a mitigation quote at the time of monitor pick up are you doing any diagnostics to come up with the quote. Or, is the quote based on your knowledge of what is required in most mitigation systems in your specific area, for that specific style, and age of home?
  • Rotary Hammer Recomedations
    Thanks everyone who responded.
    It seems there are pro's and con's to all brands. I think the most important thing to remember is you get what pay for. I have been using an "upper end" DeWalt with variable speed and vibe control. I really like the option of mounting the second handle up closer to the D-Handle as Tony mentioned. It is much more comfortable to operate in that position. Also, I have a local DeWalt service drop. I haven't had to use it often, but is nice not to have any shipping cost when service is needed. I may see if any of the rental co's around have a Bosch that I can try before making my decision.
    Thanks again,
    Brian

Brian Geswein

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