Rubble Stone Walls One thing that many people don't know about rubble-stone walls is that the mortar that holds them together is not concrete based but is a lime based mortar, these lime based mortars require moisture to keep from sanding out in essence they breathe the moisture in and out. They were not designed to be finished on the inside. Finishing over lime mortar with concrete will result in the mortar sanding out in the interior of wall which will in all likelihood cause a structural failure over time (may take 50 years). In designing a system to weatherize a rubble-stone wall you would need to keep this in mind.
I would suggest something that was done on a historic building rebuild that i was involved with: where the architect had us mechanically fasten dimple-board on interior of the rubble wall and then seal the outside of the dimple-board with a medium density foam 2" thick (like Demilec "Soya" ) to below the concrete floor for a R-12 insulation, air barrier, vapour barrier and radon barrier, and a drainage plane to sub-slab gravel then use open cell spray foam or batt insulation to achieve required insulative requirements. By following this procedure you will allow rubble-stone wall to still breath in moisture and not likely harm the ability of the lime mortar to continue to breath in and pass around moisture.
Don't forget to spray foam and insulate the joist headers, as these i understand can be up to 12% of the energy loss on a modern building.
As Bruce said above do not forget that spray foam must be installed by certified contractors and that Isocyanates are a chemical sensitiser, and as Jay above said spray a coat of fire retardant if they are to be left exposed (not behind drywall)
Bob Wood